SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Steven Dimmitt 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.

3M ago 1:09:01

MP3•에피소드 홈

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!

Jon’s Original Episode:

EP 50: Jon Cardwell

References:

Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+

EP 169: Scott Johnston

Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)

(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success

(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it

(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’

(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’

(00:35:53) – Constantly learning

(00:40:42) – More about his training

(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum

(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension

(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation

(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing

(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?

(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM

(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?

(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?

(01:07:12) – Wrap up

293 에피소드