최고 Climbing Training 팟캐스트 (2024)

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#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 35:01

7d ago35:01

35:01

In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route cl…

1
#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 37:38

1M ago37:38

37:38

The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock …

1
#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 1:20:45

3M ago1:20:45

1:20:45

Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an…

1
#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 43:45

4M ago43:45

43:45

Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and …

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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 50:28

5M ago50:28

50:28

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his…

1
#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 43:57

5M ago43:57

43:57

In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the s…

1
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 38:25

7M ago38:25

38:25

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the …

1
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 58:28

7M ago58:28

58:28

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is a…

1
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 24:57

8M ago24:57

24:57

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season…

1
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups 1:24:32

9M ago1:24:32

1:24:32

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can turn those viewings into active learning sessions by askin…

1
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance 1:25:16

9M ago1:25:16

1:25:16

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview with Thomas In that episode, we started talking about how…

1
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 32:21

9M ago32:21

32:21

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one o…

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#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 29:30

11M ago29:30

29:30

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety sys…

1
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster 1:12:23

11M ago1:12:23

1:12:23

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way. He’s found that he’s…

1
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt 1:39:06

11M ago1:39:06

1:39:06

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to sim…

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#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 33:22

12M ago33:22

33:22

Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2…

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TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing 1:18:59

12M ago1:18:59

1:18:59

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shifts to help you feel less intimidated and more confident on…

1
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3 1:25:59

12M ago1:25:59

1:25:59

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer." Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out…

1
#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 1:18:25

1y ago1:18:25

1:18:25

What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first w…

1
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins 1:10:42

1y ago1:10:42

1:10:42

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as a new part of it. The book is a compilation of letters she wrote to her kids through the f…

1
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger 1:31:15

1y ago1:31:15

1:31:15

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use efficient, quick sessions in the gym to reliably make you feel stronger and have more endurance. The cost…

1
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus 1:36:05

1y ago1:36:05

1:36:05

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to…

1
#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? 21:58

1y ago21:58

21:58

It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-pac…

1
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training 58:40

1y ago58:40

58:40

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented th…

1
#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You 45:17

1y ago45:17

45:17

In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak cli…

1
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers 1:39:57

1y ago1:39:57

1:39:57

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half! DBT is a set of psychological tools developed by Marsha Linehan to help people truly process and deal …

1
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer 1:23:33

1y ago1:23:33

1:23:33

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for bouldering in their own lives. When we started talking, I was assuming they were going to tell me all the ways…

1
#83: Training (and Life) “Edits” to Climb Better & Achieve Greatly 51:43

1+ y ago51:43

51:43

If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast! With the perspective of a new year's renewal, Coach Hörst explains the power of making occasional training, climbing, and life “edits” in the quest for peak performance and a deeper sense of…

1
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger 1:11:08

1+ y ago1:11:08

1:11:08

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she…

1
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days 1:17:19

1+ y ago1:17:19

1:17:19

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in …

1
#82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 33:07

1+ y ago33:07

33:07

In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make! Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Lau…

1
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger 1:19:07

1+ y ago1:19:07

1:19:07

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions. There are a lot of little tips and tric…

1
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing 1:18:58

1+ y ago1:18:58

1:18:58

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up to work with me in 2018. After working together on his nutrition and him working on his climbing tra…

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