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Steven Dimmitt에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Steven Dimmitt 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.
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EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)

1:45:11
 
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Manage episode 402790052 series 2638497
Steven Dimmitt에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Steven Dimmitt 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Watch the Video Interview:

EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

Check out Tindeq!

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:28) – Topics covered

(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics

(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries

(00:16:21) – Stress shielding

(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries

(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position

(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers

(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises

(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis

(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important

(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints

(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?

(01:09:18) – Playing the long game

(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli

(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow

(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow

(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions

(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries

(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues

(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

  continue reading

293 에피소드

Artwork
icon공유
 
Manage episode 402790052 series 2638497
Steven Dimmitt에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Steven Dimmitt 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Watch the Video Interview:

EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

Check out Tindeq!

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:28) – Topics covered

(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics

(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries

(00:16:21) – Stress shielding

(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries

(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position

(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers

(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises

(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis

(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important

(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints

(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?

(01:09:18) – Playing the long game

(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli

(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow

(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow

(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions

(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries

(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues

(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

  continue reading

293 에피소드

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