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Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.
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In the South, food and music go hand in hand. They define much of what we think of as Southern culture, and they say a lot about our past, our present, and our future. Each week, Sid Evans, Editor in Chief of Southern Living, sits down with musicians, chefs, and other Southern icons to hear the stories of how they grew up, what inspires them, and why they feel connected to the region. Through honest conversations, Sid explores childhood memories, the family meals they still think about, and the intersection of food and music in their lives. Always surprising, always engaging, Biscuits & Jam is a celebration of the South—and the people who are moving it forward every day. New episodes every Tuesday.
The Power Company Climbing Podcast explicit
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Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.
A Climber’s Podcast | In-depth conversations with climbers, coaches, and experts about how to become better climbers.
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373 에피소드
모두 재생(하지 않음)으로 표시
Manage series 3545012
Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing에서 제공하는 콘텐츠입니다. 에피소드, 그래픽, 팟캐스트 설명을 포함한 모든 팟캐스트 콘텐츠는 Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing 또는 해당 팟캐스트 플랫폼 파트너가 직접 업로드하고 제공합니다. 누군가가 귀하의 허락 없이 귀하의 저작물을 사용하고 있다고 생각되는 경우 여기에 설명된 절차를 따르실 수 있습니다 https://ko.player.fm/legal.
A Climber’s Podcast | In-depth conversations with climbers, coaches, and experts about how to become better climbers.
…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Principle vs. Prescription in Climbing Training 40:39
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training. This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be? 29:45
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be. Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize? 53:40
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize? There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which? This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Building Grade Pyramids vs. Towers 49:22
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower. Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing? This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing 42:03
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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing. So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing? This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s , is out now! Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint | The Birth of Sport Climbing as We Know It 1:08:19
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Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the 80's. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab . Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's. Check out the new book!
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EXPERT | Joy Black on Training for Pregnant Climbers, Trimester by Trimester 2:07:35
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Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners. Check out all of Joy's courses . Sign up for Joy's newsletter . Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout! Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche (00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability (00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy (00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications (00:41:48) First Trimester (00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed (01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump (01:10:50) Second Trimester (01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba (01:36:23) Third Trimester (01:58:34) Wrap Up (02:04:48) Outro…
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1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | A Blind Trio featuring Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca 1:32:12
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This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing. Follow EBC on Instagram . Follow Justin on Instagram . Follow Seneida on Instagram . Follow Chaz on Instagram . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BUILDER | Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg Are Pushing Their Sport Climbing Limits 1:28:07
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Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers. Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts . Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners REMIX: EFFORT The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber Ebook Training Plans The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Intro (00:01:34) Meeting Noah and Lucia (00:10:39) Goals and Choosing a Plan (00:20:34) Fitting Training Into Life (00:29:39) How Did the Training Go? (00:36:07) Did Anything Surprise You? (00:42:42) How Much Do You Get Outside? (00:49:35) How Did the Training Show Up? (00:53:39) Fall Season After Training (00:58:15) Bit by a Bat on Route (01:06:10) Spring Season After Training (01:23:05) Wrap Up…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top 33:59
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Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top , released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Film Credits: Yucca Films Online Climbing Films from the 1990s More Movie Night episodes _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed. Film Credits: Director: Ryan White DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone Photography: Ryan White Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Melissa Ruiz on Training with a Neurological Disorder 49:53
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Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs , features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Melissa has been able to access outdoor climbing with her disability, which is cerebral palsy. We pick up the conversation as she's explaining her condition and throughout the episode we talk about the importance of core strength, the joy of outdoor climbing, and what grades really mean . Follow Melissa on Instagram . Follow EBC on Instagram . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 TAPED TIPS | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill 15:53
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Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back. Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Our Movement Practice Resource Page _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering 27:56
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Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Watch the film. Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell Editor David Fitzgerald Director of Photography Eric Bissell Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen Producer Monika McClure Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese Graphics Ben Blanchard Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 MOVIE NIGHT | Takeaways from Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi 41:05
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Kris and Nate sit down to watch the new climbing film Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9a/V17 x Simon Lorenzi , and then discuss the film itself, as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing. Three years ago, Simon Lorenzi climbed the first ascent of the second 9a boulder in the world. This is that story. Produced, directed, filmed, and edited by Gilles Charlier. Watch the film. _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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1 Ravioli Biceps and Nate Drolet | The Parallels Between Climbing and Video Games 2:06:23
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Nate and Ravioli Biceps have been friends for more than 15 years, since long before Ravioli became the reigning king of the Moonboard. In this conversation, they discuss the myriad of lessons they pull from video gaming that can help inform our life and climbing. Get some Ravioli Biceps merch. Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram and YouTube . Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Check out our NEW Atomic Elements Movement Course . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Ravioli Biceps | Moonboard Benchmarking Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing Board Meetings | How To Make the Most of a Board Session _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique 23:48
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Improving climbing movement is challenging. Understanding what you most need to improve is even more challenging. The discussions around climbing technique have always been either extremely abstract or specific to a single move on a single climb. It doesn't have to be that way. Check out the new course and movement evaluation tool: The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement Watch the video of Kris failing to commit. Read more and see the video for this episode on the blog . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber 55:50
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Allyson Gunsallus is a mom and climber who is directing and producing a film series called Hand Holds: Climbing After Parenthood with the aim of benefitting parental and maternal wellness in the community . Currently shooting, with plans to release in spring 2025 , this free-to-watch series will feature interviews with well-known climbers to uncover how families address logistical challenges, issues like postpartum recovery, and more – topics rarely explored in climbing media. Learn more about Hand Holds . Support the project through Seed & Spark. Support the project through The Gotham Film & Media Institute. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Climbing and Parenting with Beth Rodden Raising Them Right with Constance Lightner Mental Toughness with Emily Tilden Meghan Baker is a Not So Average Jane Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:36) Introduction (1:40) Guest Introduction (3:32) Hand Holds Name Origin (8:48) Parenting for the Second Time (14:35) Modeling Passion (19:16) What is Hand Holds? (28:13) Who will be profiled? (30:18) Goals for Hand Holds (48:03) Where will it be? How can we help? (53:05) Wrap Up (54:34) Theme…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Fallon Rowe on Learning Mental Gymnastics So Our Bodies Can Climb 56:16
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Fallon Rowe has been climbing since 2003 and coaching since 2013. After a decade of youth and collegiate competitions, she found her true passion for outdoor climbing – both sport and trad. She’s spent her adult life pursuing climbing all over the world while offering (mostly) virtual coaching. In her words, she helps “climbers optimize their experience using mindset and mental performance techniques, like working on fear of falling, and analyzing movement and technique with video feedback and visualization.” Host Emily Chen-Newton and Fallon share a genetic collagen disorder (Ehlers-Danlos syndrome). In this conversation they talk how this condition impacts their climbing – and how Fallon coached Emily through some of these issues. Fallon also has a condition called, POTS which you'll hear mentioned in this episode. It's a dysfunction of the autonomic nervous system. Things that should be “automatic go haywire”, she says. So, her body doesn't properly regulate things like blood pressure, heart rate and temperature. Fallon’s main symptom is lightheadedness or pre-syncope (the feeling you get before you faint). Fallon is also a rock-climbing guide and teaches courses on trad climbing, anchor building, and more. She is sponsored by The Desert Rat, Cypher Climbing, HILX Eyewear, and Crux Power. Her education as a geologist gives her a deep connection to nature, and she loves playing the fiddle, shooting pool, wandering the desert, writing and photographing climbing. We start this episode with Fallon talking about a recent time when she was digging into some of those "non climbing" hobbies as she was recovering from a tendon tweak. BUT, as she tells us, this injury hit differently than others in the past -- in a good way. *While Fallon Rowe and host Emily both discuss their medical conditions and how they’ve learned to live with them, this content is not, and does not replace medical advice. Fallon can be reached on Instagram @fallonclimbs or on her website . Aug 2-4th workshop How to climb with hEDS Climbing with POTS What is hEDS? What is POTS? Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols 1:11:23
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There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Finger Strength Resource Page Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol? Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance? _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation (20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs (22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout (28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs (33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session) (38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall (44:07) 6:10 Repeaters (56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs (1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each (1:08:43) Outro…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks 56:24
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 2 so be sure to check out Part 1 , if you haven't already! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: The Bouldering Process | Flight of the Antelope (V10) The Process of Dealing with Fear While Bouldering CONFLICTED | Boards as Movement Assessment Tools The #1 Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Contrast Warm Up (aka Sloth Monkeys) Drill Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast Drill _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (00:00) Intro (03:06) Finding the Best Beta (09:12) Strength vs. Movement (09:55) Heel Hooks vs. Toe Hooks (11:05) The Mystery of Toe Hooks (18:08) How to Coach Toe Hooks (22:07) How to Know You’re Improving (27:56) The Best Level to Learn Movement (28:58) How to Know What to Work On (31:00) How to Improve Pacing and Rhythm (36:37) How to Improve at Scary Moves (41:24) Movement to Focus On Pre-Trip (43:46) False Start Hover Drill (48:35) Movement Work After a Break From Climbing (51:40) We’re Thinking of Movement Backwards (55:11) Outro…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now , because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now . The good news is that you don’t have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible. You can keep at it. Collect it all. But... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller Our Movement Practice Resource Page The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber – Use code POD at checkout for 20% off! Find the Proven Plan That Fits You _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate 39:45
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Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course! In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon! Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:02) Movement Principles Specificity (5:14) Wall Angles (9:07) Conditions Affect Movement (13:40) Training with Bad Feet (19:50) Combined Movement and Energy Systems (25:02) Movement vs. Strength Questions (31:48) How to Evaluate Movement (37:52) Movement Assessment Tool…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Our Movement Practice Resource Page Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter? Applied Body Tension Ebook _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers? 45:54
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Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement. This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022. ____________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast ____________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ 📚CHAPTERS (00:00) Notes From Kris (3:11) Introduction (6:48) Methods (15:37) Results and Our Thoughts (27:37) What Should Come Next? (34:34) Wrap Up (39:28) Credits and Theme…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go 32:50
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Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but he’s recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that “letting go” in this episode. Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers . Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers , while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast . Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When she’s not reporting, she’s rock climbing with her husband and their two cats. Follow Emily and EBC on: Instagram SoundCloud Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78 _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: More episodes of Every Body Climbs More episodes of Sends and Suffers Maureen Beck | Adapting Justin Salas | Nonsighting REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show 1:15:24
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Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part! Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show . Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram . Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Book a Remote Consultation with Nate _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing 1:45:20
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Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing . He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world. In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good. Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube . _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Performance Rock Climbing by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard Episode 482: The Coaching Eye - How Reliably Can Expert Coaches Observe Movement? | The Perception & Action Podcast Cognitive Bias Codex Infographic from Visual Capitalist Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro and Guest Introduction (3:09) Have We Overemphasized the Physical? (7:26) Udo’s Transition to the Ecological Approach to Coaching (8:42) ANNOTATION: Bernstein, Degrees of Freedom, Repetition Without Repetition (14:54) Deliberate Play (29:32) The Athlete Doesn’t Need All of the Information (32:33) Does a Coach Need to Be Better Than the Climber? (34:57) Technique vs. Skill (40:02) Open and Closed Skills (40:52) ANNOTATION: Open and Closed Skill Continuums (45:51) Adaptability and Biases in Climbing (51:07) ANNOTATION: Marshmallow Test and Delayed Gratification (56:40) What Makes Janja Garnbret So Good? (59:20) Rhythm and Patience (1:02:01) How Does Udo Assess Movement Skills? (1:09:09) How Often Should We Give Explicit Instruction? (1:16:29) Using Video in Coaching (1:28:34) Are Comp Boulders Useful for Outdoor Climbers? (1:32:40) What’s the Secret of the Japanese Team and Tomoa Narasaki? (1:42:07) Wrap Up…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves 16:29
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Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout. But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely... Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing Our Movement Practice Resource Page Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 (BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool 37:39
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Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there. Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: If you’re a coach or a climber who wants to learn how to give better feedback, check out our Coaching for Mastery course , part of the Power Company Climbing Academy . Go down the rabbit hole on our Movement Practice Resource Page. Are Your Skills Current? Also available on Spotify or Apple Grades Aren’t the Only Way to Measure Progress Also available on Spotify or Apple More from Will and our friends at Tension: Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All the Things Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2 Will Anglin and Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro and Topic Description (2:48) Climb All The Things (6:23) Figuring Out How to Change Me (8:06) Boards Make It Easier to Skip the Discomfort (9:12) ANNOTATION: Constraints, Compensation, and Choices (12:16) Climbing as Training (13:16) Climb What? (14:00) Not Stealing the Struggle (15:45) Unlearning Skills (16:50) ANNOTATION: Coach Over-Instruction and Skills Currency (18:19) Improvement Is Hard to Measure (22:50) Grades Only Say What We’ve Climbed, Not How Good We Are (23:30) Will’s 3 Grade System (24:05) ANNOTATION: Vegetable Climbs List and Diamond vs. Pyramid (26:10) Skills Aren’t Separate from Strength and Power (27:33) Skill Is the Intersection of What, How, and Doing (28:11) How the Tension Board 1 Is a Movement and Strength Tool (30:44) Just Climb, But With Intention (31:33) ANNOTATION: Where Strength and Movement Overlap and the Ultimate Learning Tool (34:31) Wrap Up (35:35) Credits and Outro…
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1 BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions 1:05:14
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Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet. In this episode, we discuss why she chose to also do in-person sessions alongside her remote coaching with Blake, what’s going well, how she fits the training and sessions into her busy life, and how the movement skills are showing up in her climbing. Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing and on Instagram Check out her Fast Track climbing movement course Listen to The Average Climber Podcast Book a remote consultation with Nate Drolet . Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2) Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full-Time Coach BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube . Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro and BUILDER Description (0:36) Guest Introduction and Details (2:45) Why Lauren Added In-Person Sessions (8:17) Was There a Specific Goal? (9:39) An Example of What Nate Noticed In Lauren’s Movement (18:43) Lauren Rants About Muggle Gyms (25:58) Fitting Sessions and Training Into Work and Life (33:09) Adjusting Skill Session Intensity to Fit Life Stressors (38:34) Kris Explains His Own Recent Skill Wins (41:39) How Lauren’s Skill Practice Is Showing Up In Her Climbing (50:14) The Complexities of Tension (1:00:19) Nate’s Monologues (1:01:43) Wrap Up (1:04:00) Theme…
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1 TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing 10:18
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For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way. In this episode, we’re going to talk about the obvious thing that most climbers are missing when it comes to difficult moves and learn several strategies that will help you do those harder moves, harder boulders, and harder routes faster. Read the rest on the blog ! Watch the video on YouTube ! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Coaching for Mastery Course _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching 1:36:22
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Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers. In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching. Find Taylor online at: The Beta Angel Project International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER Research mentioned in the episode: Austrian Research Paper and Write Up Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1) EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2) BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized? BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic _________________________ 🔌SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching? (3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed (10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable? (12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research (13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory (15:37) Speed Climbing (19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing (30:32) Thematic Movement Learning (47:40) Movement Assessment (1:02:48) Teaching Movement (1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning (1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys (1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know? (1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example (1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors? (1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research? (1:32:55) Wrap Up (1:35:06) Theme…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience? 1:06:08
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A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong. In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it. _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . _________________________ 📚 CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:37) Intro and Topic Description (3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill (6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill (10:55) What are the Pros Doing? (16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades (18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles (19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time (21:20) We Go Into Autopilot (23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills? (24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments (28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles (31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall (35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills (37:16) Why We Suggest Drills (38:15) Autopilot Mistakes (42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects (44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits (49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King (53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills (55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition? (01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience? (01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable 12:03
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Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that’s fine, too. There’s no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There’s no shame in using a hold other people aren’t. What’s possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then you’ve painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesn’t offer as many opportunities to learn. So there’s a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is: Can I do it both ways? Can I become more adaptable? That’s two questions, but you know what I mean... Read the rest at the blog! _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page _________________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing 1:16:19
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Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing. This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020. ____________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin ____________________ 🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ 📚CHAPTERS (0:00) Theme (0:37) Intro (2:29) Topic Description (4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities (8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better (12:00) Observation and Building Awareness (17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement (19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred (24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful (32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement (39:58) Self Expression via Movement (43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight (51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps (55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss (01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence (01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort (01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort (01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself (01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away (01:13:54) Outro…
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1 EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2) 44:41
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Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast , and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement . In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Our entire movement skills resource library Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode Follow Rob on Instagram Check out The Perception & Action Podcast Check out Rob's books: How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:00) Guest Introduction (2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories (7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides (9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods (11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing (18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards (20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach (23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching (25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example (28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing (30:23) Perception and Action Coupling (33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders (35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit? (37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill (40:45) Wrap Up…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1) 46:39
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Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast , and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Our entire movement skills resource library Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode Follow Rob on Instagram Check out The Perception & Action Podcast Check out Rob's books: How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (1:31) Guest Introduction (3:20) Topic Explanation (5:18) Accessibility (6:13) Impenetrability (7:33) Generalizability (8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies (10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions (11:49) How to Make it User Friendly (19:34) The Value of Case Studies (22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables (24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability (26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies? (30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle (33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports (37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization (40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism (43:27) Wrap Up…
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Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you’ll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes we’re going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, we’ll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter. We’re aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope you’ll tune in to see how it goes. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Mentioned in this episode: Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos Taped Tips | Connect the Dots Written In Stone Movement Practice Resources The Current You might also enjoy these related episodes: Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode) 37:41
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Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster. In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast . ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER You might also enjoy this related episode: BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3 . Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction (00:01:24) Topic Explanation (00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects (00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything (00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds (00:35:30) Become a Patron to Get the Top 3. Patreon , Spotify , or Apple .…
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1 BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors 50:29
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Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER Check out our Proven Plans to jumpstart your intention indoors. Check out the Comment Card blog post mentioned in this episode. You might also enjoy these related episodes: BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni BOARD MEETINGS: How to Make the Most of a Board Session ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ CHAPTERS (00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation (00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics (00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food (00:25:44) Go In With a Plan (00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans (00:29:18) Set Goals (00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting (00:48:57) Outro…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos 1:39:13
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With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools. ____________________ EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related episodes: BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset ____________________ SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon , Spotify , or Apple . Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. ____________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective , a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website . ____________________ CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:22) Topic Explanation (4:27) MicroLearning (5:39) More Content Isn't Better (9:30) Actively Participating (14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse (18:54) What to Prioritize (23:18) Entertainment vs. Education (25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate (32:43) Recognize the Biases (39:56) Follow the Topic (43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time (50:03) Learning from Video (58:23) Shape the Algorithm (1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders (1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick (1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information (1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned (1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing (1:35:38) Outro…
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1 Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin 53:51
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Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe ? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone , we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all... ...which route was really the world’s first 9a? Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself. This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents , the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio. Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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The Power Company Climbing Podcast

1 REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb 1:05:01
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Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line , a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog , which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line . She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more. When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you’re interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind’s offerings, check out Hazel’s Performance Hacks course ! Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience . Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course . Check out Strong Mind online . Follow Hazel on Instagram . This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective . You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website .…
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