Player FM 앱으로 오프라인으로 전환하세요!
#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox
Manage episode 437657703 series 3485503
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing.
Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lessons to climbing. Then he explores these potential findings through testing, ultrasound, and training with some of the best athletes in climbing. Some of his questions and hypotheses have ruffled feathers, but that is exactly what makes Tyler interesting and a valuable asset to our community.
In this episode Tyler goes deep on finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
SHOW NOTES:
- Camp 4 Human Performance Instagram
- Camp 4 Human Performance YouTube
- Camp 4 Human Performance Website
- Unlevel Edges by Zach at Specialized Masochism
- Allison Vest podcast
- Ultrasound post by Tyler
- The Wrist Wrench
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
116 에피소드
Manage episode 437657703 series 3485503
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing.
Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lessons to climbing. Then he explores these potential findings through testing, ultrasound, and training with some of the best athletes in climbing. Some of his questions and hypotheses have ruffled feathers, but that is exactly what makes Tyler interesting and a valuable asset to our community.
In this episode Tyler goes deep on finger morphology, the frame work for how climbers should understand strength training, why training on an unlevel edge could be useful, what a talon grip is, and a paradox we all run into when starting to strength train.
SHOW NOTES:
- Camp 4 Human Performance Instagram
- Camp 4 Human Performance YouTube
- Camp 4 Human Performance Website
- Unlevel Edges by Zach at Specialized Masochism
- Allison Vest podcast
- Ultrasound post by Tyler
- The Wrist Wrench
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
116 에피소드
모든 에피소드
×플레이어 FM에 오신것을 환영합니다!
플레이어 FM은 웹에서 고품질 팟캐스트를 검색하여 지금 바로 즐길 수 있도록 합니다. 최고의 팟캐스트 앱이며 Android, iPhone 및 웹에서도 작동합니다. 장치 간 구독 동기화를 위해 가입하세요.