TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

About Alex Stiger

Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover.

Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lessons we’ve learned along the way. It can be difficult to stay motivated and take care of yourself when all you really want to be doing is climbing. It can feel sort of like punishment sometimes, but the main things to remember are that you’ll get through it and you can (usually) become just as strong or stronger than you were pre-injury. In the meantime, we’ll tell you how we have learned to honestly enjoy being injured sometimes.

Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. If you’d like to work with her doing remote coaching, you can find more info on that at www.trainingbeta.com/alex.

Alex Stiger Interview Details

• Brief overview of our injuries
• What our recovery times are/were
• What we’ve been doing to stay psyched and happy despite injury
• Why it’s important to still be around climbing if it’s part of your social life
• Strengthening other weaknesses while your injury heals
• The frustrations of the medical industry
• Why we wish we would’ve sought help earlier

Alex Stiger Interview Links

• Work with Alex as your coach
• Instagram: @alex.stiger
• 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast
• 2nd Interview with Alex: How Getting Stronger Made Her a Better Coach