Episode #63 - Nugget Q & A with Coach Hörst About All Things Training - Part 1

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon...

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time?

6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do?

8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year.

10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach.

12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers?

14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades!

17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES!

18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade!

19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach?

25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic.

30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments.

34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance.

35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results.

36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear.

44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle").

46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength.

50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete.

51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality.

54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!)

56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki

59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls.

1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds.

1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs.

1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle.

1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst!

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